Ulan Bator, it turns out is just like you would expect. A big urban center in a developing country, until recently heavily influenced by Soviet communism. Cookie cutter apartment buildings, statues at squares and crossroads, and construction projects that will get finished when they do. What you would not expect is the view you get as you disembark, enter the tiny customs hall and look back at the plane. The backdrop is gorgeous, with one tiny house at the top of the hill.

All of UB is like that. From anywhere it appears that the country side is a few miles away. I am told tomorrow the tarmac will stop two miles from the city and then we will drive as the crow flies!

At the heart of town is Sukhbataar Square (pronounced "su-qattaar") which appears to be the happening place. Kids playing, couples getting their wedding photographs in front of the huge Chinggis Khaan statue, surrounded increasingly on all sides by the western gods Svarsky, Apple, Mont Blanc, Armani. Mini skirts and traditional garb, seemingly a peaceful coexistence.

As a cultural introduction we were treated to a medley of traditional entertainment; folk dances, Shaman dance and the amazing throat singing before an authentic Mongolian dinner, with Buuz and Chinggis Beer.

Tomorrow we are off to the country. The main purpose of the two day drive is to make it to the two homesteads where we want to spend time - the horse herders in the Steppes and the camel herders in the Gobi. On the way we will stop and make pictures as the opportunity arises. Aah - everyone should have a holiday like this.

More then....